Phalaenopsis Orchid Indoor Growing Care Guide

A general guide to growing Phalaenopsis, one of the most versatile genus to grow at home! Learn how to care for Phalaenopsis orchids below in our online guide.

  • Light

    Phalaenopsis thrives in bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can burn the leaves. An east or west-facing window is perfect where several hours of morning/evening light can be given, with diffuse shaded light throughout the rest of the day.

    When growing under LED or artificial lights, set the orchid about a foot or two away from the light and provide about 12-16 hours of light per day. The amount of light that most grow lights output is plenty for Phalaenopsis.

    If you notice the leaves getting bleached under the lights, move the orchid further away or reduce the daily duration of light given. The opposite can be done if you notice slower growth during the growing season by bringing the orchid closer to the grow light and/or increasing the duration that the lights are on during the day.

  • Temperature

    Phalaenopsis prefers whatever conditions are most comfortable to you in your own home. A temperature range of 65-80F is preferred during the day with a slightly cooler night, around 60F. Avoid placing your Phalaenopsis near drafty windows or heating vents, as they are sensitive to temperature fluctuations.

    Some species such as bellina and gigantea that originate from Southeast Asia (Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Borneo to name a few) prefer to stay warm throughout the year and do not do well with any cold dips. Keep these especially away from drafts and cold areas.

  • Humidity

    Most commercially-grown Phalaenopsis can withstand a wide variety of humidity environments, so it is not as much of a concern for the home grower. These orchids thrive best in environments with 50-70% humidity for the most optimal growth.

    Phalaenopsis can be prone to fungal and bacterial issues in areas of high humidity and little airflow. These orchids are not suitable for enclosed terrariums without proper air movement and ventilation.

  • Watering

    Allow Phalaenopsis to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot. With most 4-6inch pots, watering every week or two is suitable. Orchids that have more roots will need watering more often as they absorb moisture from the substrate much faster than an orchid with less roots, perhaps one that was recently repotted into a larger pot.

    A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch or two of the medium is dry, with watering taking place in the morning to allow excess water to drain away. Avoid spilling water into the crown of the orchid where new leaves emerge, as water accumulation in this area can lead to crown rot. A simple tissue/paper towel dab onto the crown after watering to absorb excess water is suitable.

  • Fertilizing

    Use a balanced orchid fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength, feeding every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer). In fall and winter, reducing feeding to once a month at most.

    "Weakly, Weekly" is a good way to remember for those who wish to use 1/4 strength dosage with every watering. Make sure to water the plant before applying fertilizer to avoid fertilizer burn, and run plain water through the pot every fourth watering or so to remove excess salt/fertilizer buildup.

  • Repotting

    Repot your Phalaenopsis every 1-2 years, or when the potting medium starts to break down or emit an acidic scent. Use a well-draining orchid mix made from bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, charcoal and other amendments. Growers who prefer to water less often can use sphagnum moss, since that substrate is much more moisture-retentive than more porous materials such as bark and perlite.

    Repotting is best done after the plant has finished flowering and when new root growth is noticed at the beginning of the growing season.

  • My orchid hasn't bloomed in a year, but is still growing new leaves and roots. What am I doing wrong?

    Majority of Phalaenopsis need a slight drop in temperature over a span of 1-2 weeks to initiate spike formation and blooming. If you are growing in conditions that remain the same throughout the whole year, or your orchid is not exposed to a cold drop that it would get otherwise in nature, you can set your orchid next to a cool window or basement for a week or two to get the orchid to produce a new spike. Any method to temporarily subject the orchid to a short 10-15 degree cold drop is suitable.